Expert Advice

Most operations should be doing both. Till when you're establishing new ground, breaking hardpan, incorporating amendments, or fighting perennial weeds. Reduce or eliminate tillage on established perennial plantings, permanent beds, erosion-prone slopes, and long-season transplanted crops. If you're not sure, strip-till is the safest middle ground. It disturbs only 20 to 30% of the soil surface and gives you the benefits of both approaches.

That's the short answer. Here's how to apply it.

Tillage gets a bad reputation, and some of it is deserved. But there are situations where not tilling costs you more than tilling does.

New field establishment is the clearest case. Converting sod, pasture, or compacted ground to production beds almost always requires initial deep tillage to break up root mats, correct grade, and incorporate amendments. Trying to skip this step usually means fighting drainage and compaction problems for years.

Breaking hardpan is another.

Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) has killed hundreds of millions of ash trees across North America and is now confirmed in 38 states. It's still spreading. For every ash tree on a client's property or in a municipal inventory, the same question comes up: treat it or take it down?

The answer depends on the tree, not just the bug. Here's how to make that call.

Before you think about treatment options, look at what you're working with. Canopy condition is the single most important factor in this decision.

Less than 30% canopy loss means you have a strong treatment candidate. The tree's vascular system is intact enough to move insecticide where it needs to go. Trees in this range respond well and can recover fully.

Between 30% and 50% canopy loss is the gray zone. Treatment might work, but recovery will be slow, and there's real risk the tree has sustained too much vascular damage to distribute product effectively. This is where professional judgment matters most.

Past 50% canopy

Every spring, the same question comes up: when should I put down my crabgrass preventer? No single date works. Crabgrass germination is driven by soil temperature, and soil temperature doesn't care what the calendar says. The best professionals layer three timing methods: soil temperature monitoring, phenological cues like forsythia bloom, and Growing Degree Day tracking.

Here's how to use all three, plus what university research says about timing for species beyond crabgrass.

Pre-emergent herbicide needs to be in place before crabgrass seeds germinate, and soil temperature is the most direct predictor of when that happens.

The target is 53 to 58°F at 2-inch soil depth, sustained for 4 to 5 consecutive days. That range comes from averaged findings across ten major land-grant extension programs, including Penn State, NC State, Michigan State, and Purdue. Some of those programs measure at 1-inch depth, others at 4 inches. Since

Pruning breaks down into two different jobs. Structural pruning shapes young trees to prevent problems before they start. Corrective pruning fixes problems that already exist in mature trees. Knowing which approach to use, and when pruning alone won't get the job done, is what separates routine maintenance from real tree care.

Structural pruning trains young trees to develop strong form from the beginning. The goal is simple: one dominant central leader, well-spaced scaffold branches, and branches that stay smaller than the trunk they're attached to. When a branch stays under 50% of the trunk's diameter, the attachment remains strong. Once it exceeds that, failure risk goes up.

Corrective pruning deals with problems that have already developed. Storm damage, disease, neglected defects, or damage from past topping and lion-tailing all fall into this category. You're working with mature wood and established growth patterns, not shaping future development.

The practical

Effective water management in your yard and garden not only conserves a valuable resource but also promotes healthy plants and landscapes. Overwatering is a common mistake, so water only when necessary and at optimal times, like early morning, to reduce evaporation and disease risk. Use efficient irrigation methods, such as drip systems or soaker hoses, and position sprinklers carefully to avoid waste. Incorporate mulch, native plants, and xeriscaping to retain moisture and reduce water needs. Reuse water when possible, monitor for leaks, and adjust lawn care practices, like aeration and mowing height, to improve water absorption. With these tips, you can save water, time, and money while maintaining a thriving outdoor space.

Proper fall lawn care is essential to ensure a healthy yard through winter and into spring. Start by removing leaves to prevent blocked sunlight, trapped moisture, and clogged gutters that can cause serious damage. Compost the leaves for an eco-friendly fertilizer. Mow until the first hard frost, keeping grass at 2–3.5 inches to protect roots without matting or exposing them to cold. Winterize your mower by cleaning, sharpening, and emptying the fuel system. Water your lawn until the ground freezes, ensuring at least an inch per week, and prepare your irrigation system to prevent spring leaks. Aerate your lawn to relieve soil compaction and allow nutrients to reach the roots. These steps will help your lawn thrive year-round.

Freeze-drying is a superior method of food preservation that extends shelf life up to 25 years while retaining taste, color, aroma, shape, and nutritional value—unlike canning or dehydrating, which can destroy much of the food's quality through high heat. By eliminating water and oxygen, freeze-drying prevents spoilage and reduces food waste, allowing families to preserve leftovers and ripe produce that would otherwise be discarded. It also offers the flexibility to freeze-dry large pieces of food or entire meals, making it a cost-effective and versatile solution for maintaining high-quality food for years.

The best thing you can do to prevent tick-borne illnesses such as Lyme disease is to avoid ticks altogether, but depending on the task at hand, sometimes that's not always easy. Here are some great tips for avoiding ticks and staying protected while you're working outside.

OSHA requires outdoor workers to be protected from environmental hazards, including harmful sun exposure. To reduce the risk of skin damage and skin cancer, wear protective clothing, broad-brimmed hats, and UV-blocking sunglasses or safety glasses. Apply SPF 15 or higher sunscreen regularly. Protecting your eyes is equally important, as UV exposure increases the risk of cataracts, growths, and other eye conditions, with damage often taking years to appear. Remember, UV rays can harm your eyes even on cloudy days, so always choose eyewear that filters out 99-100% of UV radiation.

While building calloused hands might suit some controlled environments, wearing gloves is essential for protection against unexpected hazards in public places, such as sharp objects, parasites, and harmful plants. Gloves also prevent skin dryness, infections, and reactions to irritants, ensuring safer interactions with tools and wildlife.