Burlap

Untreated (natural) burlap decomposes in the soil within a season or two, which makes it the right choice for wrapping root balls that will be planted, since roots grow through it as it breaks down. Treated burlap resists rot for jobs where longevity matters, but it should not be left on a planted root ball.

Burlap weight is measured in ounces per square yard. Lighter weights around 7 ounces handle general wrapping, frost protection, and erosion uses, while 10 ounce heavy-duty material withstands the digging, lifting, and shipping abuse of balled-and-burlapped production. When in doubt for B&B work, go heavier.

Common roll widths run from 3 to 7 feet. Match width to root ball diameter so one wrap covers the ball with enough margin to gather and tie at the trunk. For winter wind screens and erosion work, wider rolls mean fewer seams and faster installation.

Natural burlap can stay on the ball, but fold or cut back the top third so no fabric is exposed above grade, since exposed burlap wicks moisture out of the ball. Remove all synthetic or treated wrap entirely. Roots penetrate decomposing natural burlap without difficulty.

Burlap screens block wind and salt spray from broadleaf evergreens while still breathing, unlike plastic. Build a screen on stakes around the windward side rather than wrapping foliage tightly, which traps moisture against leaves. Pair screens with an anti-transpirant application for the most exposed plantings.

Yes. Burlap sheeting holds seeded slopes and disturbed soil in place while vegetation establishes, then decomposes without cleanup. It suits short-term stabilization on moderate slopes; longer projects and steeper grades call for purpose-made erosion blankets with longer functional life.

Yes. Burlap squares and rolls are stocked in production quantities with volume pricing by quote. Nurseries typically order ahead of spring and fall digging seasons by the bale or pallet, often paired with wire baskets and twine as a complete B&B package.